A pint-sized gastronomic guide to Vienna

A pint-sized gastronomic guide to Vienna

Modern Traveller shares a selection of its favourite places to eat and drink in the Austrian capital.

WORDS BY SASKIA WALKER

Seeing the sights is all well and good, but nothing makes or breaks a whirlwind visit to a city quite like the food — and Vienna has edible delights from across the globe in spades. Satisfying new spots are popping up all the time: these are a few favourites from our autumn trip to Austria’s bustling capital. 


ULRICH

Sankt-Ulrichs-Platz 1 | ulrichwien.at

A stellar recommendation from a friend, in our case, ULRICH is an institution: there is no better, brighter place for brunch in Vienna. Nab a spot at one of the outdoor tables to bask in the (late) morning sunshine, with a charming view over tiled rooftops and the striking St. Ulrich’s church opposite.

Feast on fantastic fresh smoothies, wake up with a cappuccino and peruse the array of delicious dishes on offer: eggs, eggs, and more lovely eggs! What’s more, the crispy bacon is to die for, the buzz when the place fills up for drinks in the evening is brilliant, and the smiling staff are wonderfully welcoming — making a return visit almost inevitable.


Bits & Bites 

Webgasse 27 | bitsandbites.at

Another must: forget brekkie and gorge yourself on myriad healthy delights from your people-watching perch outside this ultra-modern café-brasserie. The Vitamin Breakfast, a hands-down favourite of MT, is brimming with goodness, and stacked with a fusion of mouth-watering breakfast-to-lunch treats. Top it all off with a cracking coffee and waddle slowly through the maze of city streets to begin your day well-fed and watered.


Das Augustin

Märzstraße 67 | dasaugustin.at

A poorly-kept secret, Das Augustin’s walled garden packs out at weekends. Tiny wrought-iron tables are barely big enough to hold plates piled high with gorgeous delights from the kitchen. From scrambled eggs artfully served in frying pans, to the fruit-and-jam-coated pancakes of dreams, this place is brimming with charm and plenty to tantalise your tastebuds. Bring a book and simply soak up the sunshine, the café cat at your feet.


Palette

Vorgartenmarkt 22-23 | palette.or.at

No trip to Prater amusement park could be complete without an amble through Vorgartenmarkt. Fill your bags with fresh fruit and organic vegetables from the friendly sellers at their stalls, before pausing for a coffee or a restorative infusion at the lovely, little Palette.

Just in time for lunch? You’re in the right place. Join locals for a rich taste of Vienna in a tiny spot that feels right at the heart of the neighbourhood.


Karma Ramen

Rechte Wienzile 2a | karmaramen.at

This is soul food at its warmest. An innocuous door off the dimly lit street reveals a Russian doll-like set of rooms. Tables and bar stools spill over with laughing couples and groups of friends sipping huge bowls of steaming noodle soup, washed down with tea or a large beer (or three).

Choose from super-spicy blends to traditional braised pork belly and more in ladies’ or gentlemen’s sizes and slurp to your heart’s content under bold manga murals. A taste of Japan in Austria.


Lisboa Lounge

Mühlgasse 20 | lisboalounge.at

Tuck in to Portuguese delights — from a wonderful wine list, to fabulous food — in a cleverly decorated,  stylish-yet-cosy setting which whisks you right back to Portugal. Eating elsewhere? Pop in for an apéro or a post-dinner drink with atmosphere, people-watching from one of stools set out on the pavement. The pastéis de nata alone are worth stopping for: a nostalgic reminder for those romantic souls dreaming of late nights in Lisbon.


Riva

Schlickgasse 2 | riva.pizza

Now with two outlets — though we prefer the one just off Türkenstrasse — Riva prides itself on creating real Neapolitan pizza. Judging by the way the place packs out, they’ve got it nailed. Pull up a chair on the large deck and watch darkness descend on a very pretty part of Vienna, hands clasped around a glass of Italian vino. Munch your way through terrific toppings on a super-thin, crispy base: pizza, as it should be.


Vienna Food Festival 

Marx Halle | viennafoodfestival.info

Look out for upcoming foodie festivals: Vienna’s tiny independent food-and-drink sellers gather in the enormous Marx Halle to hawk their wares. Savour quirky cocktails from Street Mule or Rolls Bowls; treat yourself to the perfect pulled pork burger from HY Kitchen; and quench your thirst with a tipple at a craft wine tasting.

Sit cross-legged at one of the picnic benches in the centre of the hall, soaking up the action, or boogie to the DJ’s beats as the cocktail makers and shakers are wont to do. Ice cream, crêpes and waffles abound: we, of course, fell for another freshly baked, cinnamon-topped custard tart from Nata Lisboa. Where better to kick off your weekend?


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